As I drove out along “Music Highway” to Music City the home of Country, Bluegrass and Honky Tonk, a 3 hour drive from Memphis to Nashville. I couldn’t help but think how this road was traveled during the pre-Civil War, Slavery days when this land was infested with bigotry and racism. As I looked at the miles on my odometer I thought, “have we really come far, or are the bigots still among us? I arrived into Downtown Nashville at dusk as with thoughts of the human toll on slavery whirling through my head. Find previous Goyo on the Go articles click here!
Mornings in Nashville
An early Morning rise with a walk across city bridge over Cumberland River took me into the old fabled streets of downtown Nashville’s along with its brick and mortar facade you can see the new transition of metal glass and steal high-rises. The music culture was still alive here with over 120 live music venues, many are on Broadway street the heart of old Downtown Nashville near the riverside. The famous & long lived A.M. WSM radio is still broadcasting to over 30 states. Since its inception in 1926 and today, the original Grand Ole Opry has been renovated and is hosting concerts 15 minutes east of Nashville.
Back in downtown, the historical Ryman Auditorium is must see. The Ryman Auditorium is the sister venue of Grand Ole Opry and from 1943 to 1974 both locations are catalyst for Gospel Country Bluegrass. From Hank Williams in 1949 to Johnny Cash debut at Grand Ole Opry of 1956 also marked first meeting between Johnny Cash and of multi talented June Carter of Mother Maybelle & The Carter Sisters act. This romantic story of the Cash couple in music industry has been enamored by many fans. It was another ten year’s or so when Johnny Cash was banned from the Ryman Auditorium when in 1965, out of drunken amphetamine fever, Cash kicked and smashed the lights out on front of the iconic stage.
In Downtown Nashville Along Broadway or know as lower Broadway just east leading to The Cumberland River is a strip known as “Honky Tonk Highway” Country Music Live Music Bars since 1930s. One of the earliest known Country musician legends, regarded as “The Father of Country Music” Jimmie Rodgers, began performing there whom attracted many more musicians to come through over the decades such as Willie Nelson, Kris Kristofferson, Johnny Cash and so many other’s. Typically “Honky Tonk Highway” Run’s 7 days a week no cover charge at many of the venues where music and drinking begins 10am to 3am and its common practice to encourage new up and comers to perform. Also points of interest is Johnny Cash and Patsy Cline Museums as well legendary RCA Studios which gives tours daily.
A Country Divided
As i veered off “The Music Highway” to begin my journey back home to catch my flight out of New Orlean’s, I wanted to stop in Atlanta Georgia to visit Dr. Martin Luther King Jr birthplace, Ebeneezer Baptist Church ( MLK Senior & Jr where Pastors 1927-68) and MLK Historic Park. Within walking distance of each other, is the Civil Rights Museum and Dr. King’s tomb all located in the Historic Civil Rights Neighborhood of Auburn District of Atlanta Georgia.
Between The American Civil War of 1860s to Civil Rights Movement of the 1960s this part of the adventure made more apparent the Southern Confederate Heritage of the area. I stopped at Lookout Mountain an historical forefront of the Civil War because of the Confederate industrial train system for the war effort against United States Union. The Fort located high up in mountainous scenic view of Chattanooga River and the historic Civil War battlefields.
The Confederate White House
On my Last 200 miles stretch back to New Orleans i drove through beautiful scenic Tuskegee National Forrest and then stopped for lunch in Capital City of Montgomery Alabama for a quick lunch near Rosa Parks Museum in the Capital City and took a quick photo of of the second White House. The White House most people associated with on Pennsylvania Ave Washington D.C. is the polar opposite within very two different ideologies. The White House of the Confederacy is located in the heart of Capitol City in Montgomery Alabama. The Italianate architect house was built in 1835 and Occupied by the President of the Confederate State 1861-65 until their defeat and surrender to The Union of United States of America.
My very last stop was to visit the Legendary Country Star Hank Williams boyhood house about hour Southeast of Montgomery in small rural town called Georgiana, Alabama. I felt empathy towards folks subject to segregation, humility and suffering of inhumane acts such as the Jim Crow laws through all the Sundown cities rural towns and counties that i navigated through reminded of the current present struggles we are sadly experiencing with the current Republican administration. I only hope that in 2021, we can truly be reunified and finally complete the Civil Rights reconstruction through to its truest form of love and understanding for one and each other.
As I began my drive toward New Orleans and my flight back to Los Angeles, the music of the legendary Blues Master LeadBelly’s Song “Jim Crows Blues” in which Segregation and discrimination are everywhere in every day, life began to reverberate in my head. We cannot go back to dark times like these, not so long ago, where people were judged by the color of their skin and not by the content of their character. Rest in Peace Dr. King, and all the ghosts of other martyr for justice that I encountered along the Blues Highway.
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Several North American highways are as iconic and pioneering such as Route 66. The highway extends from Chicago to L.A. and many have got their kicks on Route 66. However there is another iconic highway that you might not have traveled and it is called the Blues Highway.” This iconic road is known as Highway 61 and it includes such music-centered cities as Louisiana to Nashville. I started my travels in New Orleans or commonly known as “the Big Easy” in Louisiana. Original settlers were Native American tribes consisting of Natchez (sun set ) and Chickasaw. It was then colonized by the French in 1718. The French ceded to the Spanish 1763 after the defeat of the French to the British Colonists. Many years later, with the American Revolutions defeat over British and French rule, the Louisiana Purchase of 1803 was completed. Because of this purchase, the United States expanded much of its frontier as far west as Colorado and north of the Montanas, and east of Missouri.
Under French early rule, African Slaves and Indigenous slaves were common. The area included some free African slaves, but not until 1865 (the end of the American Civil War) was slavery abolished by the Emancipation Proclamation facilitated by the Union defeat over the Confederate South. The Southern Bible Belt is primarily Protestant but there is a small demographic mix of Catholicism which is what makes New Orlean’s a very unique city consisting of a fabric of syncretism within religions. The diaspora of African and Afro Carribean Ramon Catholic beliefs, known as Voodoo, typically was practitioned against the struggle and hardships of slavery. This was my second visit to New Orleans; the first visit paralleled with the 2005 devastating hurricane Katrina of 2005. The charm of the city culture of French, Spanish Creole architecture, stretched out over Parishes which includes rows of Oak trees was still mesmerizing to behold. The delicious hungry palette of Creole culinary delights of gumbo, jambalaya, crawfish /seafood and was augmented by the French Cuisine which includes the infamous beignets, a fried sugar coated like donut. New Orleans is very rich in cultural diversity from Spanish, Creole, Vietnamese and Cuban influences. I love to travel to find people’s culture through food, and architecture.
Musical Preferences
My personal preference of examining ethnology within southern culture is music. Music in this area, has a connection with the slave trade. During the early colonial rule of the British, French and Spanish, music was always a form of communication with slaves through songs and dance. With this ethnological approach in mind, my musical Blues Highway began with New Orleans which gave birth to Jazz Music. The musicians included many of the most prolific, highly prestigious and influential group such as; Trumpeter Luis “Satchmo” Armstrong, Professor Longhair, Fats Domino, Wynton Marsalis, Neville Brothers, Jerry Lee Lewis, Slim Harpo, Dr John to name few notables. As well as Jazz music, you will also find music genres such as Zydeco, Cajun which all laid ground for the 20th Century Blues Highway which began on the infamous Highway 61 (revisited).
In the Beginning
Highway 61 begins or ends depending where you began, in Minnesota. More specifically Hibbing, the hometown of Bob Dylan, which inspired him to write the song “Highway 61 Revisited” off of his 6th album. If you’re not good with selling your soul to the devil as the great Delta Mississippi Blues Legend Robert Johnson, of the 1930’s, then i highly recommend listening to Freddie McDowell, a great Blues player of the 60’s Blues Revival. The Blues Music Highway 61 runs clean 1,400 miles north to south along the Mississippi Rivers and takes you all the way to New Orleans. Most famously Highway 61 stretches between Nashville Tennessee through Memphis which is known as “Music Highway.” It also leads through the Delta Mississippi “Blues Highway” to Jazz City of New Orleans which carried along all the earliest musicians from their rural hometowns to the buzzing music scene of the bigger cities. Imagine taking this highway in 1908 with upstart Ford Motor Company rolling out the first ever Model T automobile? By the 1920s there were over 8 million cars registered to the roads in conjecture by the end of WW1. The Federal Government initiated the Federal Highway Act which Highway 61 was one of its designations to pave highways from the long winded gravel roads. I was beyond thrilled to voyage out from New Orleans in my rental car navigating between the beautiful scenic country of the rural Deep South counties filled with small towns. Witnessing very lush green swamplands give way to the Mississippi cotton farmland reminded me of my early memories being transfixed by my Delta Blues cassette tapes. I listened to these tapes as a young teen, listening to the earliest Delta Blues musicians. I also read books and stories from British Rock and Roll stars written in American music magazines.
Driving through the Delta triggered in me thoughts of the last 5 year’s of super charged political racial tensions and history of the Southern culture heritage of hardships. I fixated on the struggles of the inhumane white colonial institutionalized chattel slavery system, in which Africans and African Americans by law were treated as property traded, bought or sold. I stopped in Jackson Mississippi for a quick southern lunch after a 3 hour drive officially now, “In the most Southern Place on Earth.” The Delta Mississippi was once fields of timber then sold to make way for the Cotton Belt of the 20th centuries of new economics of plantations. Cotton and sugar cane was the predominant source of agriculture only now spatial remembrance of old factories and farms dotted far in between as I just made it into Clarksdale before sunset. ” Clarksdale, known as the Gateway to the Blues ” is an historic town and home of many Blues legends such as the Legend Robert Johnson’s infamous tale of the Cross Road’s. In this tale, Johnson sold his soul to the devil and became one the earliest iconic Blues Guitarist of the 1930’s. The Delta Blues or variant versions of early Country Blues consist of harmonica, guitar and slide guitar were hallmarks along with Delta vocal style that is introspective soulful, passionate and fiery coinciding with the 1920s/ 30s era. You must discover such Delta Blues Musicians like Freddie Spruell (earliest recordings “Milk Cow Blues”), Muddy Waters (later became Chicago Chess Records Blues Man 1950’s), Son House, Robert Johnson, Big Joe Williams, Sonny Boy Williamson II (Harmonica), Elmore James (King of Slide Guitar), John Hurt (Country Blues Guitar Singer), John Lee Hooker and so many more. However to represent female Blues, singers please check out the “Empress of the Blues” Miss Bessie Smith, Ms. Smith was originally born in Chattanooga Tennessee and died tragically in a car accident on Highway 61 just outside of Clarksdale and Memphis in 1937.
At Crossroads
Graceland
After visiting the CrossRoads of Clarksdale just an hour away from the BirthPlace of Rock and Roll, Memphis Tennessee, I arrived early evening to rest up for a morning day visit to Elvis Presley’s “Graceland.” Graceland is a must visit for any music enthusiast. Behold the gaudy but fun lavish interior decorated inside the colonial mansion and his private jet aptly named Marie Presley, a jet which he flew throughout the late 60’s until his death 1977. Graceland is an example of Rock and Roll extravagance 101. My personal favorite for my dollar and soul is the living shrine known at Sun Studios the BirthPlace of Rock and Roll, where Elvis Presley cut his first 6 top #1 singles before going to RCA records in Nashville. There are lots of luminaries associated with Sun Studios including Johnny Cash who would pace the outside back parking lot eager to cut a record. Also, Jerry Lee Lewis would burn his cigar into the Sun House Studio Piano during his early recording sessions. Musicology Historians all agree that Sun Studios is the place of the very first Rock and Roll song recorded by Jackie Brenton and His Delta Cats. The Delta Cats included original members Ike Turner who was the keyboard song composer of “Rocket 88” circa 1951. Many greats have recorded there from B.B King, Howling Wolf, James Cotton and Roy Orbison, to Rufus Thomas ( Walking the Dog, Memphis pioneer-from Mississippi), Jerry Lee Lewis, Johnny Cash and Carl Perkins who all recorded at the studio between 1955 to late 1950’s before owner Sam Philips closed shop and opened new studio at a larger location.
Original Heartache
From the 1960s the Sun Studio original building became other businesses until the mid 1980s where it once again became a working studio and ongoing museum with most of the original interior still intact from the 1950’s. Elvis first recorded “My Happiness,” “That’s Where My Heartache Begins,” “That’s Alright” cover song originally by Delta Bluesman Arthur Crudops and “Blue Suede Shoes” originally by Carl Perkins. Johnny Cash’s “Folsom Prison Blues,” “Hey Porter,” “I Walk the Line” and “Cry Cry Cry” were all recorded at Sam Phillips Sun Studios. Simply a must visit while visiting Memphis, this historical tour begins on the 2nd floor with relics of studio past before finding yourself inside the original recording room. The original recording is home to historic Rock and Roll tales of Gospel, Country Blues, Rockabilly and Rock & Roll. One of the fascinating stories is a Doo Wop group incarcerated in the Tennessee Prison in Nashville early 1950s. Sam Phillips the owner of Sun Studios after hearing them on the gospel radio made a deal with the prison warden to record this incredible singing Doo Wop group called the Prisonaires. The Soulful Singing Doo Wop group were transported from the prison to Sun studios still handcuffed and shackled during the entire recording session of the song ” Just Walking in the Rain.” The song, which sold over 250,000 copies and granted them day passes to tour although they were doing hard time for murder, manslaughter and larceny, talk about redemption.
Aretha Franklin’s Birth Home
Memphis is a great historic city of Music and the Civil Rights Movement, a popular visit for any road traveling Music History enthusiast. Before I continued down Highway 61 “Music Highway,” I respectfully visited the Queen of Soul Aretha Franklin’s birthplace and the historic Lorraine Hotel where Dr. Martin Luther King JR was assassinated in 1968. May you rest in Power Soul Queen and Dr. King! Find out more about Greg Hernandez and read his previous articles here!
North Bound Blues Maggie Jones
Got my trunk and grip all packed Goodbye, I ain’t coming back Going to leave this Jim Crow town Lord, sweet pape, New York bound
Got my ticket in my hand And I’m leaving dixieland
Going north child, where I can be free Going north child, where I can be free Where there’s no hardships, like in Tennessee
Going where they don’t have Jim Crow laws Going where they don’t have Jim Crow laws Don’t have to work there, like in Arkansas
When I cross the Mason-Dixon Line When I cross the Mason-Dixon Line Goodbye old gal, yon mama’s gonna fly
Going to daddy, got no time to lose Going to daddy, got no time to lose I’ll be alone, can’t hear my northbound blues
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I didn’t know what to expect really, and after years of hearing about the nightmares of the Khmer Rouge and their emergence through Chinese support and funding by Communist, Marxism-Leninist international power brokers. Along with the above, the Viet Cong, Northern Vietnamese Army, was by 1960’s, gaining a foothold deep within the jungles with plans to overthrow the newly independent Cambodian government. To add to this mix, throw in the Khmer Republic, which was backed by the U.S. before The 1970 Cambodian coup d’etat of the Communist party under prime minister Pol Pot.
The Killing Fields
As my arrival time was approaching I couldn’t help thinking of the biographical drama film of the “The Killing Fields” based on real events when two British journalist covering the Vietnam War were apprehended by the Khmer Rouge and forced into labor camps and thus bore witness to the human genocide of Cambodian civilians. To help lighten my mood, the musicology enthusiast within myself focused on Cambodian culture. Cambodia won its independence from France during the 1950’s and therefore my muse was early 1960s French Cambodian Pop Music. Additionally early 1970’s Cambodian Rock and Roll, primarily influenced by U.S. Armed Forces Radio, caught my attention. My travels limited my stay only to SIam Reap and unfortunately I never made it to the capital Phnom Penh, the actual birth place of Cambodia French Pop music and 70’s Rock and Roll. Nevertheless once visiting, it is very hard to find any Rock and Roll in Siem Reap these modern times and to my dismay coming up short of any semblance of pre Communist culture of Cambodia.
Poking the Bear
During The Khmer Republic, pro U.S. era of the 1960’s, a lot of the musicians influenced by western culture adapted hippie fashion, music and lyrical content which was diversifying Cambodian culture poking fun sarcasms towards the conservative ultra hard right wing autocracy of the communist party. Much of this new wave influence spawned genres of music from Garage Rock, Psychedelic, Funk, Soul and even Proto-Punk. However, the Cambodian Civil War took its toll on the country and along with American bombing campaigns over areas of Cambodia bordering with Vietnam, made it difficult for musicians in Cambodia. Wartime curfews, often lead to musicians having to play day time amidst civil war bombings and gunfire nearby as the musicians performed. Somehow Cambodian Rock scene persevered through this until the fall of the Khmer Republic to the Khmer Communist Rouge of 1975.
To the Extremes
The Khmer Rouge was highly right wing autocratic, xenophobic, totalitarian repressive paranoid regime which called themselves the Democratic Kampuchea and their communist ideology was pivotal in the indoctrination of social re-engineering, re-classification policies such as farmers and peasant’s of National purity from province Kampuchea ethnicity you were considered no longer as working class. A strong majority of farmers were considered traitors to the Khmer Rouge Revolution or simply didn’t agree to new reform of agrarian society, specifically the rural agricultural co-operatives. These purges and rebellions not only took place in rural areas and villages but all Civil Class systems based on ethnic background suffered re social engineering including religion.
Declaring Atheism
Although a New Declaration State of Atheism was pronounced by the Khmer Rouge, it did not save lives of thousand Buddhist Monks whom faced large-scale secularization and iconoclasm. There was a destruction of 15,000 year mark of Cambodia temples, monasteries, scriptures and sculptures. This severity towards the Buddhist Monks resulted in hard labor but most commonly lead to their execution’s as fate towards Cambodia ethnic minority of the Islamic religion. The Khmer Rouge belief system was for radical transformation of self imposed economic isolation and Nationalize Country isolation from outside foreign influences, closing schools limited to re doctrinarian, abolishing Banking and all currency and even neologism, could you imagine forced to reform your language, sadly this is a type of colonialism.
Forced Patriotism
The strategy was about destruction of individualism and was forced by execution. Imagine as a farmer your life disrupted by sudden regime change imposing a vision of agrarian society of cooperative farming which translates to all your hard work is shared including your livestock and agriculture to the country regime with no banking commerce. To survive farmers were forced into slave labour and often just killed their own livestock. All civilians of class Musicians , Intellectuals, Chefs, Educators often executed or spared to force labor camps to these rural farming co operatives, if you wore glasses, it was, to the regime, a signal of intellectualism. It was common for a rock and roll musician whose life was spared, only to be sent to hard labour working camps and typically being forced to only perform National Patriotic Songs of the French Revolution era. Musicians had to decide to play songs that woefully went against their ideology but sure easier than working 10 to 15 hours days at labour camp with no end insight.
Modest Monastary
So you could foresee the voyage anticipation ran high and little uneasiness due to my sympathy for people but nevertheless was excited soon upon arrival found myself checking into my room at very modest charming hotel. very close to downtown Siam Reap that had all the charm and energy of a Buddhist Monastery. My first Night out i explored many streets ,vendors and bars where befriended some curious
Cambodian diaspora of Russians, Chinese and Vietnamese and of course others of the InterNational Community typically Australians, British and German’s. You can sense the life restored to the streets even though only been 23 years of Pol Pot death in which last few loyal commanders still surrounded him from his northern border province near Thailand. Although Cambodia was again Republic empire its international court trials still ongoing to persecute Khmer Rouge commanders of Pol Pot Regime of crimes against humanity evolving the genocides of many Vietnamese and Cambodian ethnic minority groups as of 2018 was last current ongoing sentencing of Pol Pots regime.
The Recovery
Cambodia has somewhat recovered economically and demographically from Khmer Rouge Regime however took until 2009 for Cambodia education system to be required the teaching of the Khmer Regime atrocities of genocides buy typically its been only by word of mouth from surviving elders. The genocide not only effected Cambodia intellectualism culture as well the Rock n Roll and Pop music of pre Rouge Regime bands such as Baksey Cham Krong regarded as Cambodia first guitar rock band influenced by American surf rock bands even though band broke up in 1966 and some of the members survived the genocide however still 20 members of its family died nevertheless Baksey Cham Krong band
influenced many bands that came after them. Band Drakkar influence of hippie fashion long hair aesthetic and hard rock sounds compared to Led Zeppelin, Jimi Hendrix, Santana and Grand Funk Railroad and their self titled debut album recorded pre Rouge Regime era sold 20,000 copies a decade later after the genocide ended making it the highest selling full length album of Cambodia at that time. However when the album was originally released Pol Pot Khmer Rouge was in early stages of the revolution overthrow and the band was amongst the 2 million of residents forced out of the Capitol City of Phnom Penh and forced to work camps but the bassist and lead guitarist disappeared during the ensuing of Khmer Rouge genocide as their fates are still unknown.
Imprisoned Music
Meanwhile the singer Touch Seang Tana was imprisoned in a work camp and sang Santana songs to Khmer Rouge Soldiers on demand while passing himself as of a common peasant and the Rhythm Guitarist Touch Chhatha was of many professional musicians who were sent to work camps and forced to play patriotic and traditional music for the Khmer Rouge troops practically everyday, subsequently the surviving members reunited for the fist time in 2011 for a show in Singapore. Other notable musicians whom disappeared without a trace and highly presumed executed is the King of Khmer Republic music Sinn Sisamouth a self taught musician at very early age and wide influence of composing traditional music of pop, psychedelic, Rock,Blues, Latin and cha cha cha. There are few accounts of his death and disappearance but one popular story is Sinn Sisamouth hand of fate was struck that he was ordered to be executed by khmer Rouge firing squad but requested one last opportunity to sing one last song to attempt an appeal to the soldiers emotions ,but the soldiers executed him anyhow and sadly many of his master recordings where destroyed.
Civils Times During War
During the Cambodian Civil War Sinn Sisamouth was a supporter of The Khmer Republic Military and had recorded patriotic songs in support of the Republic stance against Khmer Rouge insurgents. Another Singer Ros Serey Sothea she was regarded as “The Queen with a Golden Voice” National treasure and she recorded over hundred songs including great remake covers of Creedance Clearwater Revival and Sam the Sham of the pharaohs but many of her master recordings destroyed and because she was famous entertainer of western cultural influences qualities disdain by Khmer Rouge she was targeted immediately for imprisonment or execution even though few claims she was forced into marriage with the enemy and physically abused but any case her remains where never found as well.
Pen Ran another Female singer during the Khmer Republic before the Civil War she was regarded as the second lady of popular music culture in Cambodia and she had recorded over hundred original songs from risque songs of romance and sexuality and known for her unrestrained personality and rejecting traditions asked of Khmer women to more western influence of hairstyles and fashion representing more of modern gender roles. Really recommend you watch a film documentary ” Don’t think I’ve Forgotten: Cambodia Lost Rock and Roll for further insight to this lustrous history of music and cultural of Cambodia and thankfully in post Rouge Regime Government surviving musicians where allowed to find each other again and perform on national radio and create new content all the while the Black Market along with Cambodia music rock fans came together to reprint or remaster from copies of personal collections and reproduce whatever survived from the chaos dealt by the Khmer Rouge Regime.
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The adrenaline of a traveling Back Packer junkie tends to feed off experiencing counter cultures. Better known as culture shock, it is one of the broad points of soul seeking like one might find going to church to search for the holy enlightenment and answers to life or as a Buddhist Monk meditates for stillness of the mind. For my third travel back to South East Asia this past January and February 2020, I finally had the chance to visit and explore the vast history of Cambodia’s Siem Reap, second biggest city to capitol of Phnom Penh. What allures many visitors worldwide is a highly recommended visit to Ancient City of Angkor Wat which is a jurassic park city of complex temples and ruins recognized by UNESCO as World Heritage site.
Rolling Down the River
Arriving directly from the Mekong River in Laos, I was so excited to visit one of 8 Wonders of the Ancient City and largest Hindu Temples of the world, Angkor Wat, which was the centerpiece of my visit. The Largest religious site in the world, Angkor Wat was built during 12th century and dedicated to the Hindu God Vishnu. Later in 12th century it was recognized as a Hindu-Buddhist Temple and served as the earliest capitol city of Cambodia. Known as the Khmer Empire before the invasion of Thailand, better known in Siamese, ‘Siem Reap’ which translates to “Siam defeat.” This defeat serves as a reminder of centuries old conflict of 1549 when Siamese of Ayutthaya Kingdom, today known as Thailand, invaded Khmer Kingdoms of today’s Cambodia.
The Khmer Empire during the 16th century’s came under duress with certain interventions by the Siamese including invasions resulting in the Khmer taking control over Angkor Wat, creating political, religious and geological shifts. The Nguyen Dynasty, better known as Vietnam, was also making moves for domination over and around the Mekong River.
I timed my visit to coincide with the Holy Holiday associated with Hinduism and Buddhism and the Chinese lunar new yea . I try to continuously tries to re imagine or astro travel back to when The Khmer Monarchy was not only in decline from several distinct and gradual political changes but also trying to understand the struggle with human – environmental interactions. People were subject to natural disasters such as flooding and droughts were reported with ecological consequences which just led to more war. People of the area were fighting for dominance and control over the fertile basin of a Mekong River between Thailand Siamese and Nguyen Dynasty of Vietnam for nearly 3 centuries.
On the Mekong
The Mekong River is 12th longest river in the wold and major trading route from western China and South East Asia which leads to access to the Sea of China for maritime trading with Spanish and Portuguese. Inherently, the geographical advancements always met with resistance with different lords and kings within all the provinces of Cambodia. The Khmer Kingdom was so oppressed of their sovereignty as a country, that it wasn’t until nineteenth century French Colonialism helped severe its dominance with Siamese and Nguyen Dynasty per requested by Cambodia’s King.
Francophiles
The French Protectorate of Cambodia was recognized in 1863 by the territorial invading countries. The French Indochina was now beginning to assert its colonial control over South East Asian countries such as Laos, Vietnam and a southern enclave of China (Kingdom of Autthaya Siamese) modern day Thailand. Interestingly, Thailand never was totally colonized during the Franco-Siam War which lasted for several generations until 1941, it just ceded territories to avoid being conquered by colonialist France or the Communist insurgency. Small factions of Guerrilla insurgents known as the Communist Party of Thailand were active between 1965-1980 and were responsible for several political assassinations occurring mostly in the North Eastern Kingdom of Thailand bordering with China which had their own Civil War. Cambodia, at that point was a little more sovereign under Cambodia King An Duong under the French rule until their own Civil War in the 19th century.
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Greg Hernandez‘ music career has taken him all over North America, I know because I have had the pleasure to travel with him, but it’s his work for the screen that most challenges him. Hernandez career in creating music scores began with an independent film, Lola’s Love Shack which is a comedy directed by Patrick Perez of Lux III Pictures. The score for this feature length film was co-written with fellow L.A. music veteran and Audio Engineer, Ibo Rodriguez. Hernandez states, “the project was fun because Ibo and I recruited a bunch of other L.A. musicians and it really had a communitarian feel. After this project, Esteban Zul, contributing writer on Lola’s Love Shack approached Hernandez about scoring MonkeyFunkles, another comedy in which Hernandez acted in as well! “That was a lot of fun, I don’t know if acting is my forte, like music, but I had a really good time!” Hernandez said. Find Greg’s Travel Series – Goyo On The Go here
Veggie Burrito’s to Dance For
For his most recent Score, Hernandez teams up with noted L.A. based Chef David Dickson. In Chipotle Marinated Veggie Burritos, Chef Dixon gives up some of his secrets to his award winning recipe! I haven’t tried to replicate Chef Dickson’s Burrito just yet but if the video is any indication, it’s gonna be a bomb full of taste in your mouth! Hernandez will also be working with Chef Dixon on a Black Eyed Peas Curry video slated for later in 2020.
The Good, the Bad and all That
Expressing the music, interpreting the narrative along with the visual is very appealing according to Hernandez. “Audio and music enhances the visual narrative” Hernandez states, “It is a great challenge writing a parallel piece of music for the listener to enjoy.” He adds, “Growing up as a kid I always had an ear for sound and I would gravitate towards the soundtrack / score which told the story for me. I admire Johnny Greenwood of Radio Head he scored, There will be Blood. Steven Copeland of The Police scored the Equalizer which left a deep impact on me. The legends like Danny Elfman, and of course John Williams who mastered the art of theatrics. The late great Ennio Morricone, whose eccentric style of music fit his movies perfectly!”
I mentioned to Greg that I was also effected by the music in movies like the Good, Bad and the Ugly, it seemed like a ballet of entwined notes and images that danced into our imaginations. Hernandez states, “The key with score music, as it relates to the visual, is to find a common theme, look for a genre of music for the visual. Scores are challenging because you have to keep an open mind. The visual directs where you are going to go. The emotion of the actors is also key. Genre of film consistent with the genre of the movie for the most part.”
In the future Hernandez will be working on The Plume, which is a full-length documentary film which demonstrates how military complex polluting native lands from WWII to the Present Day. The Producer is award winning Journalist Franc Contreras who according to Hernandez, “Does a great job showing how this pollution has been detrimental to the Native population, causing health issues including cancer.” Will we see you on the screen again Greg, I asked, “only if it’s another comedy because the set is full of laughs and I get to laugh at myself!.” Yup, I replied, we all need to do that more often.
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The newcomer awakes to exquisite early morning calls of prayer ring’s out over the monastery speaker from Buddhist temples almost haunting but very soothing meditative morning chant echoing over and down the world’s twelfth longest Mekong River which is the major trade route that begins from the Tibetan Plateau and runs through China, Myanmar, Laos, Thailand ,Cambodia and Vietnam local villages. Something to see and experience in the early mornings is Tak Bat an tradition of Lao Buddhist Monks. Dressed in their traditional Saffron-clad robes the Monk’s silently walk down the streets receiving food offerings from the local almsgivers its an serene ritual and tradition in which is done in very silent meditative way between the almsgivers showing respect with offerings in a peaceful way.
Also in the early morning a wonderful and interesting space where you can discover authentic Laotian grown vegetables and ingredients all vibrantly colorful and fresh in abundance from the local mountains where many friendly people from local surrounding villages come to eat and shop all of this contributes to its charm.
There are nearly eighty Buddhist temples and monasteries in and around city of Luang Prabang, Laos, which means “Royal Buddha Image.” At every turn the smell of incense mixed with the fire and smoke burning of the agriculture fields turns back time. A second or so later, the waif of air turns into a sweet, warm, yeasty, inviting smell of Laotian coffee from a French Bakery. Walking down the colonial street, submerged in the jungle tropics, which makes this quite a dichotomy but yet beautiful and completely serene to all the tingling senses.
Morning Snack
I was especially smitten and charmed by my personal favorite morning snack, the hot soup of Khao Piak Sen. It is different than the more famous Vietnamese Khao Soi soup, because the Laotian morning soup uses different bigger noodle and broth and entire chunks of meat. The meat is typically pork and topped with sprinkles of the freshest vegetables you will find throughout South East Asia.
The Art of Cuisine
There is so much great Laotian artistry cuisine to discover for vegetarians as well and all food lovers your gonna be in culinary heaven from street vendors, traditional food fit for a king to various international restaurants serving basic fare however due to different ingredients used in that part of the world typically a basic burger is like cheating yourself.
Street Cuisine after Dark
The Night Market is something to behold. Just outside of the historical city, there are natural and historic sites within hiking distance where you will find lush green hilltop trail passing a black bear reserve to three tiered water falls cascading down amongst swimmers of Kuangsi Falls or the highly visited Pak Ou Caves where hundreds of miniature Buddhas sculptures remain in many positions including teaching, peace, nirvana through meditation. Perhaps this could be your opportunity to find peace through your pallet! Find other articles by and more info about Greg Hernandez here.
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“You can’t help it. An artist’s duty, as far as I’m concerned, is to reflect the times.” – Nina Simone
The visual narrative of this piece, took me longer where i found myself censoring myself twice. Originally the narrative was about my travels to China travel. Additionally I wanted to include reflections to go along with the COVID 19 narrative but felt people were not ready due to fear of the unknown.
Reflective Remembrance
I found myself doing more reflective remembrance and memorial about “viruses” of North American racism as well as COVID 19 and reflections of September 11, 2001 (9/11).. Im fascinated by how America has endured U.S politics and undergone a change in our way of life as a civilian during these modern times of 21st century.
Anarchy In L.A.
Even the day of finishing this project, I was taking heat by local anarchists accusing me of being on the side of the oppressors because i posted a Dr. Martin Luther King, Jr., quote about peaceful and organized protest. Go figure!?!
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Coming home off a 3rd voyage from South East Asia this past Jan-Feb of 2020, I was thrown into the grips of quarantine due to COVID 19 outbreak emanating from China. This pause in everyday life, gave me time, as if heralded by the spirits of the Far East, to reflect on the many experiences that I was fortunate to have. Through the photography and video I captured during these recent travels to South East Asian religious centers / temples, agriculture-wildlife parks and other cultural relic’s, I took the opportunity to collect and catalogue my thoughts.
All Audio and Video Created by and Property of Greg Hernandez
So through quarantine began a seminal body of work producing an somewhat educational and meditational video of pictures and video captured during my months travel’s this video became “Flattening the Curve” a call of creative duty amongst artist world wide to help lesson the hardships and anxiety of quarantine.
Bamboo for Me and You
The iconic imagery of photos and video used in “Flattening the Curve” captures the very likeness of being on location taking us through the sub-tropic rivers of the Mekong River by crossing a bamboo seasonal bridge from Luang Prabang the second biggest city of Laos.
Through the monsoon rain season about six months of the year the bamboo bridge is predominant way of crossing from City and is erected and dismantled depending on season but leads to and from the city to neighboring villages where most locals live , work and goto school.
Bridge to Everywhere
The Bamboo bridge symbolizes the ultimate journey of humanity of coming together not necessarily in a globalist corporate way but however endearment for better compassion for others ,unity through understanding and respect , i know its just anecdotal but then again i am a dreamer are you? Click to find Greg Hernandez biography and previous articles.
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In this weeks article we re-publish an article that originally appeared in print for the organization Food Not Bombs written by Greg “Goyo” Hernandez. Take a listen to Community Publishing’s Author Alex Paramo interviewing Goyo as a prep for the article! Click to read Goyo’s Biography
Goyo Interview: Food Not Bombs
Punk Rock vs Social Media
It was just a mere wink in time when I was a young impressionable punk rocker just embarked on my seminal work as a artist emerging into sonic chaos in a garage of the suburbs of Los Angeles County. It was in the post proto-punk era of the garage land of bands that I found the explosive mid 70’s punk rock sub culture that had barreled all the way from the U.K. , NYC , D.C., which coexisted with California’s hardcore punk rock approach. In this sound I found instant awakening of my nerves, which resonated with the political spectrum of the times leading into Reagan-nomics. What I couldn’t grasp from this music and its lyrical message, heard on vinyl records or cassette tapes, I discovered through fashion, ideology, and fanzine journalism and its neologisms, which helped create and solidify this collective feeling of anti-establishmentism. As the punk rock sub-culture became more pervasive, bands such as Minor Threat carried the flag for the anti-inebriation movement in the United States; the song “Straight Edge” gave the scene a name. The sound was fierce and energetic to my carnivore senses and took a while to figure out this new anti-establishment lyrical message. Nonetheless its aggression was very parallel to the other political agents of punk rock subculture, especially in the hard core movement in California in the very late 70’s-80’s .
The California culture was primarily farming livestock. My family’s and friend’s backyard BBQ meat-eating culture and the Hedonism of suburban beer drinking of our teen adolescence just seems contradictory the very notion of vegetarianism and animal rights. The straight edge movement and its music were like a beacon of light whether or not we got the message. After all don’t most unpopular cultures go through exploitations until it trends? The straight edge movement went through its three eras of counter cultural since its early beginnings in the U.K. In the 80’s the counter-movement in the United States branched out of the bent edge from D.C., to the mid 80’s youth crew which became militant straight edge leading into the 21st century. Although a lot of counter culture groups philosophies bend marginally of their concepts of “a wellness thing,” the core of anarcho-punk and straight edge philosophy adheres to the refraining from alcohol, tobacco, and other recreational drugs, in reaction to the excesses of punk subculture. However most subculture groups could be categorized as adhering to anarchism without objectives, in that they embraced the syncretic fusion of many potentially differing ideological strains of anarchism: animal rights, vegetarianism, environmentalism and anti corporatism. Some anarcho-punks practiced pacifism much like the hippie counterculture or the Hare Krishnas. These avant-garde countercultures shared common moral and ethical code of health and self empowerment practices that elude corporate meat industries and consumerism.
Environmental Justifications
In the early 70s, other activists were considering how veganism might provide a viable alternative to existing food systems. In 1971, Diet for a Small Planet by the social policy activist Frances Moore Lappé introduced an environmental justification for going vegetarian or vegan to a global audience (it eventually sold more than 3m copies). In the same year, counter-culture hero Stephen Gaskin founded a vegan intentional community “The Farm” in Lewis County, Tennessee, bringing together some 300 like-minded individuals. Four years later, The Farm Vegetarian Cookbook by Louise Hagler announced: “We are vegetarians because one-third of the world is starving and at least half goes to bed hungry every night,” and introduced western audiences to techniques for making their own soy-based products such as tofu and tempeh. For so long veganism was synonymous with soybeans and brown rice, not the glamorous vibrant vegan food of today’s youthful practitioners who now radiate positivity from their Instagram feeds and other social media platforms. Photogenically speaking, this really helped to galvanize the hype of the low-attention-span internet age to brand an attainable and sustainable lifestyle change for carnivores to practice an ascetic diet or for the many “flexitarians” of today who still occasionally eat meat or fish. Some hard-line or straightedge vegetarians consider it troubling that the internet has transformed something with such a rich political history into “a wellness thing” that allows would-be consumers to label themselves vegans without having to engage with the “excess baggage” of the ideology.
American writer, Khushbu Shah, has argued that the popularization of veganism via social media has erased non-white faces and narratives from the dominant discourse, as white bloggers and influencers fashion a lifestyle in their image, something anarcho-straight edge punk subcultures would rail against, for their philosophy was to rebel through self-control which is the ability to control one’s actions even if that means the mainstream. Somehow the detail of the veganism political message which is rooted in social justice has faded from view in the 21st century and still perhaps out of fear is demonized as un-dietary and is shunned by people whose beliefs include derogatory name calling unlike other forms of bias (sexism, racism). This negativity towards vegans and vegetarians is not widely considered a societal problem but rather commonplace. As in the past and now vegan conversations of ideology and beliefs still stand with subversive views for environmental and social change, even if it means change to the industrial ways of farming just as the meat industry revolution of the mid 1800’s onwards.
Meat Eating Across North America
As a full-time musician and meat eater touring North America, the notion of where and what I’m going to eat was never too concerning although most of the time the options could be very malnourishing with the way of roadside gas stations and fast food options. But today newer industrialized systems are now starting to be more accessible in the far reaches of the open interstate from what vegans and vegetarian musicians and traveling artist are reporting. Fresh fruit in Europe and Mexico was more abundant to find than in North America and there are places in the world where I found meat is prohibitively expensive for many local people in those regions, leading to vegetarianism or vegan life style by necessity. Often we where graced with great home cooking while navigating through cities which was a great conduit to our anxieties from eating unhealthy even though meat was still a staple in our diets due to our Latin culture but I personally still looked out for fruit and grains which is a continuous challenge.
Vegaphobia
One thing I can’t understand is the phobia or hatred towards vegan or plant based vegetarians. I guess it’s just part of this polarized culture we live in which just reminds me of the 70’s and 80’s, growing up around homophobic assholes. It was definitely refreshing hanging with the punks who valued gender equality, anti racism , and anti fascism. This counter culture for most part evaluated themselves in terms of balance in authenticity. Todays internet the consumption of meat seems totally aligned with certain kind of conservative masculinity; so much for gender quality there. Who would think that a meat eater with punk rock ideology could possibly hang up a leather jacket, could be pro-active towards animal rights and environmental control? Why can’t it be possible for the collective consciousness of “a wellness thing ” whether left-wing, conservative or radical right to have existential beliefs in which veganism is a political personal choice instead of engaging in traditional political protest. Unlike other forms of discrimination, the aversions towards vegans still escalated, but only to micro aggressions, such as “vegaphobia,” a phenomenon which demonstrated a sociological sphere of negativity out of Britain. This terminology might have changed but the sentiment remains much the same in the 21st century. Outside the polarized moral lens there are more than 11,000 scientists from around the world who have come together recently at the 40th anniversary of the first World Climate Conference who have outlined vital signs of human activities that contribute to global warming and climate impact including human and livestock population, meat production, deforestation and fossil fuel consumption, just name a few.
STOCKHOLM, SWEDEN – AUGUST 28: Fifteen year old Swedish student Greta Thunberg leads a school strike and sits outside of Riksdagen, the Swedish parliament building, in order to raises awareness for climate change on August 28, 2018 in Stockholm, Sweden. (Photo by MICHAEL CAMPANELLA/Getty Images)
Cultural Vegans
In many cultures the practice of abstaining from meat production and consumption has established a history with their belief systems rooted in non-violence. Many Rastafarians and followers of Jainism, and certain sects of Buddhism have sworn off meat, fish, eggs and dairy for many centuries. And it seems many countries are changing legislation such as South Korea ending slaughter and consumerism of dog meat, NYC council just recently passing a package of animal-welfare bills banning forced fed products and California Governor Gavin Newsom passing a bill to ban the sale and manufacture of new fur statewide, a first in the United States. It also seems veganism’s political ideology to change the world has its own new traditions such as “Veganuary,” a UK non profit that inspires people to go meatless in the new year to embrace the “wellness-thing,” end suffering to animals and champion the planet mother earth; sounds pretty punk rock to me! As I personally try to move away from perhaps my own disparity and hegemony to meat and dietary ideologies of my own political personal choice I will rejoice in one my favorite anarcho-punk bands, Rudimentary Peni, song “1/4 Dead”:
“Three quarters of the world is starving, three quarters of the world is starving , the rest are dead the rest are dead, overdosed on insensitivity all varnished to crosses, Three quarters of the world is starving the rest are dead, the rest are dead". Rudimentary Peni - All Rights Reserved.
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“I remember formally meeting Greg “Goyo” Hernandez for the first time at an incredible street festival in Downtown LA where he was playing with International Recording Artists, Maleko Collective. I had met him casually when he came around Albuquerque with another internationally acclaimed music act, Mezklah, but I never really spent time getting to know him on deeper level. I remember hanging out with my buddy, another awesome musician, Matias Pizarro and going backstage to hang out with the band. There were tons of news media and I was encouraged by Goyo to stick around and I ended up appearing in band photos for the band in LA, national and international media! I also got to meet awesome musician Ibo Rodriguez and fast friendships started!
As time has passed since those crazy LA, live music and booze filled days, I have gotten to know Goyo, not only as a musician who has played at many of my Mariposa Music events with Marujah, Keith Sanchez & the Moon Thieves, Slim Zwerling & the Yums, Casa De Calacas, and great dude but Goyo as a leader – a Philosophical Thought Leader entrenched in the wisdom gained through years in the counter-culture music scene! Goyo has traveled extensively around the world and as a Thought Rebel, Goyo is going to take you on a journey that will satiate your mental, optical, and auditory senses as you experience these destinations through the use of him many talents: music, visual arts, story-telling. You are in for quite the treat!” Author, Community Organizer Alex Paramo Click to read Goyo’s Biography
Goyo On The Go Every Friday!
These pictures and video of my recent travels of January and February 2020 were captured in Asia. Specifically, Japan and the South East Asian Kingdom of Thailand, Northern Province Chang Mai. Here you will find a 700 year old Buddhist temple and the ancient tunnels of Wat. Wat, which is the largest religious monument in the world, was once a Hindu temple dedicated to the god Vishnu but later transformed into Buddhist temple in the late 12th Century. Among the many beautiful countries in this region is Laos. I also traveled to the Luang Prabang’s Mekong River and Kuangsi Falls. We are also going to take a trip to Cambodia’s ancient city of Angkor.
All Audio and Video Created by and Property of Greg Hernandez
Flattening the Curve
This project – Goyo On The Go – is intended to be a cultural introduction via all original video, audio and photography meant to inspire new travelers of the world to move outside your own reality. I humbly hope you enjoy this respite from the Covid 19 Quarantine while you help Flatten the Curve. I composed this soundtrack in hopes of harnessesing the energy, vibe and flow of my travel experience. Enjoy and see you next Friday! – Goyo Click to read Goyo’s Biography and Previous Articles
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Curated by Mary Ann Gilbreth, Ed.D., Department of Teacher Education, Educational Leadership and Policy, at the University of New Mexico. This collections includes the work of her students from several of her Reading Methods Classes, promoting cultural diversity in the classroom.
